It was almost dark when we pulled into our campsite on Lake Superior. A flat tire on our trailer added hours to the journey from St. Ignace, but we were finally here. I swung the truck door open, jumped down as soon as it stopped rolling and ran to the beach. Setting up the camper could wait. I was eager to have my first look at Lake Superior before daylight faded and turned everything black.
The sun was almost set, sinking over the bay, lined up perfectly between Grand Island and the mainland. The warm oranges and yellows painted across the sky contrasted with the cold wind stirring up waves, wild and brown, foaming and beating on the sand. I knew Canada was on the other side somewhere, but with the vastness of Lake Superior before me, it felt like standing on the edge of the world.
It’s hard to describe Michigan’s Upper Peninsula because no words are enough to explain the rugged, pristine beauty. Along the northern coast are deserted beaches covered with rocks in every color of the rainbow. Lake Superior constantly laps the shore with a cadence like the heartbeat of the region. In the interior, thick forests are dotted with rushing waterfalls and teaming with wildlife. Small towns are filled with friendly people who make you feel at home, even though they know you’re a wide-eyed tourist. Their love for this place is deep, and they’ll tell all about it if you have five minutes. Or an hour. Or two.
The only way to truly appreciate the Upper Peninsula is to see it for yourself. This is my bucket list of must-do and see things in the U.P.
1. Drive over the Mackinac Bridge – If you’re coming up from the south, you’ll have to drive over the Mackinac Bridge. The world’s fifth largest suspension bridge connects the Lower and Upper Peninsulas and crosses The Straits of Mackinac where Lakes Michigan and Huron meet. The view is spectacular, and you’ll be even more amazed when you look down and all you see are waves churning below. You’ll want photos of this beautiful bridge. Here are the best spots to take Mackinac Bridge photos.
2. Visit Mackinac Island – Catch the ferry from St. Ignace or Mackinaw City to this little island in The Straits. The only transportation is by horse, bike or foot since cars aren’t allowed. You’ll find historic homes, boutique shopping, relaxing resorts and beautiful natural sights. There’s so much to do on this tiny island that it gets its own bucket list.
3. Tahquamenon Falls – You’ll find Tahquamenon Falls tucked away in a state park near Paradise. It’s one of the largest waterfalls east of the Mississippi. It’s fed by the Tahquamenon river. Tannin leaching into the river from swamps along its path give the water an amber color as it goes over the falls. The fall’s rugged beauty defines the allure of the Upper Peninsula.
4. Oswald’s Bear Ranch – For more than 20 years Oswald’s has been taking in bears that can’t survive in the wild. Some are cubs who lost their mother too soon. Some are bears people kept as pets until they realized how big an adult bear gets. The bears live in large, fenced-in enclosures that are as close to their natural habitat as possible. Visitors walk through the ranch, viewing the bears and taking pictures. The 4p.m. feeding is a favorite time for guests to visit. You can even have your photo taken while you feed and pet a cub.
5. Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore – The Pictured Rocks are soaring limestone cliffs along the shores of Lake Superior, carved and painted different colors by centuries of water, wind and waves. You’ll also find lush forests, beaches, sand dunes, and waterfalls. The beach towns of Munising and Grand Maris bookend the national park. By the way, there are no fees to visit this national park!
6. Soo Locks – This amazing feat of engineering has helped ships travel between Lake Superior and the other Great Lakes for more than 160 years. Learn all about the locks at the visitor’s center. If you’re there at the right time, you can watch a freighter pass through the locks. You can also ride a boat through the locks yourself. There’s even more to do in Sault Ste. Marie, so be sure to check out the rest of the town while your’re there.
7. Ship Wreck Tour – Lake Superior’s unpredictability claimed many ships during the height of its shipping industry. Near Munising board a glass bottom ship and sail out into Munising Bay where you’ll view two underwater ship wrecks through the boat’s glass. Grand Island and a historic lighthouse are also on the tour.
8. Copper Harbor – At the top of the Keweenaw Peninsula, Copper Harbor is the northernmost town in Michigan. The quaint town is full of history. Learn about the area’s copper mining past, visit Fort Wilkins, an 1844 military outpost, and take a boat ride on Lake Superior to tour an 1860s lighthouse. You’ll also find shops and restaurants in Copper Harbor. But the real appeal of this town is the fresh air, remote trails and untouched forests that line the sparkling shores of Lake Superior.
Photo credit – Hilton Lieberum
9. Isle Royale – From Copper Harbor you can catch a ferry to Isle Royale National Park. The island situated in Lake Superior is the least visited and one of the most remote parks in the system. You’ll find more untainted forests, miles of trail and rustic camping. A moose may even cross your path. There is a single lodge in the park if a tent isn’t your style. This is a place to truly get away from it all.
10. Sleep in a lighthouse – If you’ve ever dreamed of living in a lighthouse, your wish can come true for a night or two. Three lighthouses in the Upper Peninsula offer bed and breakfast accommodations: Big Bay Point, Jacobsville and Sand Hills. At Whitefish Point you can stay in the old Coast Guard crew quarters next to the lighthouse.
11. Lake of the Clouds – Situated in a valley between slopes in Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, Lake of the Clouds shines blue against the bright green of the forests. Prepare to have your breath taken away. The lake draws visitors from all over who simply want to experience the amazing vista.
12. Brockway Mountain Drive – The road up Brockway Mountain on the Keweenaw Peninsula is an 8.8 mile scenic highway that climbs 1,320 feet to the summit. Along the way are incredible views of the peninsula, Lake Superior and the forests. If it’s a clear day, you’ll be able to see all the way to Isle Royal, 50 miles away.
13. Take an underground mine tour – The mining industry has a rich history in the Upper Peninsula, first copper then iron. The industry once supported many of the residents in remote Upper Peninsula towns. Today the mines are no longer in operation, but many are available for tours. Delaware Copper Mine, just outside of Copper Harbor, lets visitors take a self-guided tour of the mine shaft. At the Quincy Mine tour in Hancock, you ride a cog rail train deep into the No. 5 shaft. At The Adventure Mining Company, outside of Greenland, if you want to see the second level of the copper mine, you’ll have to rappel down on a rope. Near Manistique, you can tour Fayette Historic Site, a ghost town that was the site of a large iron smelting operation.
Photo Credit – Dale Musselman
14. Kitch-iti-kipi Spring – Outside of Manistque you’ll find one of the most beautiful sites in all of Michigan tucked away in Palms Brooke State Park. Kitch-iti-kipi is the largest freshwater spring in Michigan at 40 feet deep and 200 feet across. Every minute, 10,000 gallons of cold water rush up from limestone fissures. The water is perfectly clear, but the bottom of the spring is emerald-green, giving the water an unusual Technicolor hue. A self-operated raft takes visitors onto the water to look down where you’ll see fish and ancient trees covered in algae. Water flows so swiftly from the cracks that it stirs up sand, creating an ever-changing kaleidoscope underwater.
15. Visit the Stormy Kromer Flagship store – The iconic, Michigan-made Stormy Kromer hat is a must-have for any outdoor enthusiast on a cold day. Its unique design is recognized all over the state and around the country. I can’t go out wearing mine without at least one person stopping me and saying, “Stormy Kromer, eh?” Visit their flagship store in Ironwood where you’ll find a complete line of their hats, coats and other outerwear.
16. Eat a pasty – A pasty is a hand pie filled with savory meat and vegetables, and it’s the official sandwich of Michigan. British copper miners introduced the pasty to the Mitten State, because it was easy for them to bring to work and eat on their lunch break. Traditional pastys are filled with beef, onion, potato and rutabaga. Today you’ll find pasty shops all over the UP peddling this hardy all-in-one meal in a variety of options, including chicken and even vegan.
17. Estivant Pines – This stand of pines south of Copper Harbor is over 600 years old. The trees are some of the very last old-growth white pines left in the midwest. They reach heights of 130 to 150 feet, and it takes three people holding hands to reach around the trunk of one. The peace and beauty you’ll find in this unspoiled forest is rare and inspiring.
18. Trenary Toast – It’s basically just cinnamon toast, but it’s an Upper Peninsula staple. Finnish families who settled in the U.P. brought rusk, twice-baked toast dusted in cinnamon, to the region. First, women sold Trenary Toast from their homes to other locals. Then in 1928, a family opened a bakery just to make the toast. Today you can find the toast sold in brown paper bags in grocery stores throughout the U.P., or you can visit Trenary Home Bakery where it’s made.
19. Crisp Point Lighthouse – This remote lighthouse on the wild south shore of Lake Superior in the eastern Upper Peninsula isn’t easy to reach, but it’s worth the trip. Most people reach Crisp Point via M-123. Whichever route you choose to take, you’ll need to purchase a local area map, because GPS and cell phone service is pretty much non-existent along the way. Most of the roads are unpaved and rough. You can get there in a regular car, but an SUV or truck would be better. The view of the lighthouse on this pristine spot on Lake Superior is worth the drive. And the trip there through wilderness forest is an adventure in itself.
Have you been to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula? What would you add to this bucket list?
I’d do that ship wreck tour for sure! I didn’t know about #14, thanks for sharing.
I would add Mackinaw Island fudge ice cream from Jikberts dairy in Marquette. One of our favorite stops!
Thanks for your great list!
The Big Springs is quite the unique place to go to. You get to ride across in a raft, see big fish. Divers use this to practice diving for emergencies.
You be sorry if you miss 14
We missed the ship wreck tour this time but we did go to Kitch-iti-kipi. It is a mesmerizing place. Get prepared for waiting in line though if you want to go on the raft.
Great list… even though I’ve lived here for over 40 years there are several things on your list that I still need to do! I’d add Laughing Whitefish Falls in Alger County, and the UP State Fair in Escanaba (always around August 18th). 🙂
I would add Copper Peak. Also the falls along Black River to Black River Harbor.
I’ve been to both places several time and they are awesome. We camp at little girl point every labor day week.
All the falls along the Black River to Black River Harbor.
Great list. I would substitute the Seney national wildlife refuge drive instead of Oswald’s. See nature in the wild and keep an eye out for Bigfoot! As an animal lover Oswald’s made my very sad- the bears just paced around and waited for people to throw apples to them. And I hate to see the young ones used in photo opps. Seney is stunning anytime of the year.
Oswalds Bear Ranch is a beautiful place, run by two wonderful people Dean & June…
It is a beautiful place, and I’m sure the people are wonderful. But its also true that the bears just paced around and waited for people to throw apples to them.
Perhaps your miss guided.
Ask Dean the owner why the MI DNR and almost any other state will NOT place a Bear at Oswald’s.
He wouldn’t tell you truth so here it is.
• It’s For Profit
• Not 1 Bear HAS EVER BEEN Rehabilitated and Released! NOT ONE.
• Cited By Fish and Wildlife …. Not Properly caring for the Bears
•Cited by DNR..,,Not Properly caring for the Bears
• State and Feds Shut this place down until he sweet talked his way to getting the state to change the laws.
• SIMPLY GOOGLE ….. “OSWALD BEAR RANCH, MICHIGAN” and YOU MIGHT BE OVERWHELMED by ALL THE VIOLATIONS and The Truth about what goes on There.
A BEARS DEATH TRAP!
Sad!!!
Drive the US2 shoreline along Lake Michigan! It’s beautiful anytime of the year!
Stop along US 2 at the 12 Mile beach and enjoy a wonderful Lake Michigan beach.
I’d add a visit to Presque Isle Park in Marquette. I’m and NMU alumni and it has the best views of Lake Superior. The black rocks are awesome. Brave students jump off them. There are great places to look at rocks and go swimming here.
While in the Ironwood/Bessemer area, check out Copper Peak, the largest ski flying hill in the Western Hemisphere. You can take a chair lift to the base of the tower, an elevator part way up the tower, and climb stairs the rest of the way for a spectacular view of the surrounding area. Also, there are several waterfalls along the Black River, all just a short walk from the parking area.
Sturgeon River Gorge is a must see. Falls River Falls is a favorite. Pequaming used to be a ghost town of an old Ford factory for lumber, last time I was there the water tower still stands and Second Sand beach is nice and nearby.
Nice tour. I’ve seen most but not all of those. Camping on top of the Grand Marais sand dunes was a life experience. So much bigger than Sleeping Bear. BTW: The Pictured Rocks are made of sandstone, and the beaches have ground quartz. See Wikipedia for details. Thanks.
Greg, I can’t tell if you are a troll or just an idiot. Sleeping Bear Dunes encompass 35 miles of Lake Michigan. Grand Marais Dunes are only 5 square miles.
There is Devils Slide on the East end of Pictured Rocks
Isn’t that called the log slide?
Sleeping Bear Dunes is in the lower peninsula. This site is bucket list for UPPER peninsula
As a child of two Copper Country Uppers who never lived there, I did do 8 of the 18 on summer vacations. It’s my 2nd home and a part of my self that will forever remember the good times.
Yoopers, not Yppers.
Yoopers, not Uppers
Thanks! You’re right. That wasn’t even close and I know better.
If you are in the Copper Country and are at the beach, a bonfire roasting Vollwerth natural casing weiners is a must do! Been doing that for years!
Michigan Technology University in Houghton
Ice sculptures competitions
Hike Bare Bluff in the Keweenaw
Out house races
deer camp
Iron mountain ski jump
UP State Fair
Ice Fishing
I would add the waterfalls of Presque Isle River and Black River. Plan a full day for each. They are stunning.
On the shore near Christmas is a great park (can’t remember tge name) with an old pig iron furnace. You can collect slag from the waters there as well.
Nama is an interestjng old train town and Fayette State Park is a great way to spend a day.
Bay Furnace St Park. Love to look for slag glass there!
Where is Nama, the old train town?
That would be Bay Furnace National Forest Campground!
The U.P. is on the south shore of Lake Superior. Canada is on the north shore.
I’m referring to Michigan’s northern coast, not Lake Superior’s.
Great list! The mountain in Copper Harbor is actually “Brockway mountain” and I’d like to add the Quincy Steam Hoist mind tour in Hancock, MI. Includes above and underground tours with very knowledgeable tour guides.
I’d add Fayette to the list– it’s an old settlers ghost town off of the Garden Peninsula near Manistique. There’s also the DeYoung Family Zoo, the Cut River Bridge walk, and Bond Falls.
So much more to see!
We did all of these, but I can’t believe Boyd Falls didn’t make this list!! It was breathtaking & one of our fondest memories of thevwjolr Upper Peninsula
A lot of the small towns have fish fries on Friday night. No trip to the UP is complete without a whitefish dinner.
Another treat is a visit to the Garlyn Zoo, just east of Naubinway. It’s in the woods with mulch paths. They have a nice collection of animals in natural settings and a variety of birds run free. The kids love it!
Bond Falls at Paulding and also the Paulding mystery light.
I lived in Michigan for most of my life. The last 10 years have been in western Minnesota (nope, still haven’t given in to being a Vikings or Packers fan). I frequently travel back to Michigan, mostly through the UP.
Recently we visited two places I think would be great add one to your list (I have more but it is your list and I don’t want to be rude).
Firstly, I think Sturgeon Falls near L’anse should be added. I’d never been there until three years ago and I have to say I wish I had done so many many years ago. Beautiful and rugged. Filled with color and ancient rocks. Just a beautiful place to stop and easy to get to.
Secondly, and this is a bit off the beaten path, is Mt Arvon. Listed as the tallest point in the state it takes a bit to get there (rugged logging roads and basically few marked directiones). Since we travel a lot we try when we can to find the “highest point” in these states we visit. This was actually the second one we did, after mt. Eagle in Minnesota. You can find Mt. Arvon easterly of the L’anse area, but not in the Keewanaw peninsula. It is secluded and the view of the surrounding area is mostly blocked by trees, but it is still beautiful and there is a small overlook you can walk out to.
By the way, great list! A lot of them I still haven’t visited!
No eastern UP? Les Cheneux islands and Drummond Island, the gem of the Huron, must e on your list
All need to visit the Hanka Homestead Finnish Museum in Askel, a fully restored Finnish family homestead first established in 1896. All original buildings, tours given 12:00 to 4:00, Tuesday’s, Thursday’s, Saturday’s, and Sunday’s from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Follow US 41 to ten miles north of Baraga or 20 miles south of Houghton, turn west on to Arnheim Road, proceed six miles following the signs. Get a taste of how the original settlers lived!
Don;t forget to hunt for Thimble Berries if you’re there in Summer…..but let the locals catch you
You covered most sites, I would add the Portage lake lift Bridge, the Cut river Bridge and Fayette Park!
Seul Choix Point Light house in Gulliver is woth a look. Rumored to be haunted but it’s on a beautiful desolate shoreline.
Nature’s Kennel dogsled rides west and north of Newberry is a fun thing to do in the winter.
You’ll cross it on the way to Copper Harbor, Isle Royale, and Brockway Moutain, but it’s worth mentioning the few-of-its-kind lift bridge between Houghton and Hancock.
Remember there are many many many waterfalls that are beautiful.
What about the shipwreck museum? Sienne? Fayette? All the other waterfalls that you have to take a hike to see. Cinnamon Rolls in L’Ainse. There are a ton of incredible places in the UP. We live in the greatest state!
For the best meal in the U.P. Stop in at “The Long Branch” in Faithorn. Right at the intersection of CR577 and CR388
Sylvania Wilderness Area
Cisco Chain of 15 Lakes
Lac Vieux Desert…all Watersmeet area
Old reconstructed village of Victoria at Rockland
The U.P. is a photographers paradise!
So much to see and do that is free for all to enjoy! Mother Nature blessed our area.
To this I would add the hike to Bare Bluff near Lac La Belle in the Keweenaw and a stop for some baked goods at the Jam Pot in Eagle River!
Seney Wildlife Refuge is not to be missed, especially during fall migration season, and there’s Hemingway’s Big Two-Hearted River nearby.
Yondota Falls is a hidden treasure…
I was born in Norway, MI, onthe Wisconsin border. I’ve been to all but the bear park. Hard to pick favorite but Pine Mountain Ski. Jump in Iron Mountain & Ice Caves in Eben are impressive. The entire US-2 is beautiful any time of the year. Thank God for passing lanes!
Of add the Superior Dome…a huge wooden stadium! Also, by the Cut River Bridge, there’s the very long steps down to the bottom!!! Beautiful!! US – 2, has so many things to do!!
I would add Hessel Antique boat show in August. And Drummond Island. Thanks for the list, we have been to many of the places. A comment about Oswald’s Bear Ranch, The bears that live there, are rescued bears that have been deemed to be unable to survive on their own in the wild.
No it is not…. the Bears are in their natural habitat as close as it possibly can be and they are very well taken care of… absolutely nothing sad about it…
My wife and I enjoyed watching sunsets on Lake Superior just outside Calumet in the Keeweenaw Peninsula area.
Isn’t that called the log slide?
Surprised no one mentioned Taquamenon! Is it too touristy? We enjoyed a brew or two and food at their restaurant. Went up in late September, the Soo Locks were the big “OMG, that was awesome!” The Shipwreck Museum was worth the trip and the Offroading to Crisp Pointe was not on the itinerary, but made my day! (I did miss pizza and breadsticks from The Portside Inn, Marquette. It was Pandemic and I salve my bruised heart with thoughts we never would have made it anyway.) The Fayette Ghost town and Big Springs were a great way to round out a day with lunch/dinner at Clydes drive-in in Manistique. We were able to get the best out of the state parks permit and get to Taquamenon the next day. So much to see and do, even The Mystery Spot was a treat! Crazy thing is I was a student driving back and forth for years from downstate, and I missed sooo much!